Anatolian Structure: "Moderate in All Areas"
Using the Anatolian Standard as a Guide to the Discussion
By Erick Conard, Lucky Hit Ranch, September, 2021
Many Anatolian breeders seem to falsely believe that the ideal breeding Anatolian's structure,
demeanor, and temperament is best seen in Anatolians winning at Dog Shows. However, we all
know that Dog Shows do not select for superior working ability! Superior Anatolian
structure, demeanor, and temperament was developed over thousands of years under harsh
and severe conditions to select Anatolians best suited to guard sheep and/or goats
in a predator rich environment throughout Turkey. As stated in the Anatolian Standard,
"Developed through a set of very demanding circumstances for a purely utilitarian purpose;
he is a working guard dog without equal, with a unique ability to protect livestock."
I believe that true working settings still reveal the Anatolians with superior structure
and, more importantly, test for "a unique ability to protect livestock!"
Therefore, Anatolians capable of winning ribbons
at dog shows but who are physically and/or mentally unable to successfully guard sheep and/or
goats in a predator rich environment clearly lack vital traits required in breeding
Anatolians and should NOT be bred. Working ability can only be evaluated and
proven in dogs raised in a correct working environment (i.e. with sheep and/or goats in
a predator rich environment).
Ultimately, Breeders and their breeding decisions either ruin the breed or preserve
the breed. To preserve Anatolian Shepherds as they were developed in Turkey, Anatolian
breeders must value the working aspect of the breed as the single most important
aspect of the breed. In this breed, nothing trumps working ability, the essence of
the breed!!!
When selecting our breeding Anatolians, the first criteria to look for is proven superior
working ability. Those without superior working ability should never be considered for breeding.
Then, from those Anatolians selected for their proven superior working ability, we can move on and
begin evaluating our potential breeding Anatolians for superior conformation!
If someone can spend the time, work, and money to drag their Anatolians all over
the country to dog shows, they should certainly be willing to spend the time, work, and
money to prove that their breeding Anatolians have superior working ability, the single
most significant trait required for all Anatolians!
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FOREQUARTERS
Shoulders should be muscular and well developed, blades long, broad and sloping.
Elbows should be neither in nor out.
Forelegs should be relatively long, well-boned and set straight with strong pasterns.
The feet are strong and compact with well-arched toes, oval in shape.
They should have stout nails with pads thick and tough. Dewclaws may be removed.
Anatolian Standard
Two Essential Physical Features Vital for Correct Movement:
1. Correct Front Assembly
2. Correct Rear Assembly
CORRECT FRONT ASSEMBLY
The dog's front limbs bear around 60-65% of the dog’s body weight when standing.
In addition to carrying body weight, a dog's front limbs function as shock absorbers
when stopping, jumping, and moving downhill, and when whirling, twisting, and
landing during fights with serious predators. Frequently, the shoulder slam is an Anatolian's
initial fighting technique in confronting invading canines. Approaching at an
angle, the Anatolian hits the canine with its chest/shoulder, rolling the invader
over. As the Anatolian flys across and above the canine, the Anatolian reaches down,
grabs the invader by the throat, and holds on. This flips the Anatolian's body
around and generally ends all fight in the invading canine without injury to the
Anatolian.
When the Anatolian is fighting off predators, especially when using this technique,
huge amounts of stress are placed on the front assembly, which (unlike
humans) doesn't include a collar bone to provide support for the shoulder girdle.
A dog's shoulder assembly is only attached by muscles, tendons and ligaments. This
makes the shoulder assembly more susceptible to stress and injury with repetitive
activities. Shoulder muscles must be strong, powerful, and well built for an
Anatolian to be able to handle the excessive loads being distributed throughout
the shoulder, elbow, and feet joints and to also provide support to adjacent
tissues.
Since Anatolians require a strong front end in order to perform their guardian function
and to reduce their risk of injury, it is vital that breeders pay special attention to
the front assembly when selecting their breeding Anatolians! Narrow fronts are
highly detrimental to a successful shoulder slam! Breeding for traits that are
currently, but improperly, winning in the show ring is contrary to breed preservation.
Correct breed preservation requires serious and studied consideration of your breeding
Anatolians for the correct front Assembly and for all other traits required to
increase the Anatolian's chance of survival against serious predators!
Anatolians have evolved over thousands of years to perform as livestock guardians.
Their structure has been developed through survival of the fittest to perform these
guardian activities. What is correct structure for an Anatolian can be incorrect
in other breeds developed to perform other very different tasks. For instance,
a greyhound selected for generations to run at speed might have a straighter front
assembly (straighter front legs) and what would be called over-angulated rear assembly
(hind legs) compared to what is required in Anatolians and other guardian breeds.
The structure allowing a Greyhound to run so efficiently allows them to have a
larger stride and more speed, but it decreases their ability to make sharp turns,
an ability required in livestock guardians when fighting serious livestock predators.
Since Anatolians require both speed and agility, and the ability to make lightening
sharp turns off their rear, correct structure for superior racing greyhounds
is detrimental for superior working guardian Anatolians!
The most desireable structure for the Front End Assembly is a 45 degree angle
between an imaginary horizontal line and the angle of layback of the shoulder
(scapula) with a corresponding 45 degree angle of the upper arm (humerus). In
addition, an imaginary vertical line dropping from the highest point of the
shoulder should drop down to land just behind the dog's front pad. (see the
drawing above)
To determine the correct angles, the front feet should be placed underneath
the Anatolian's shoulders and their hocks should be placed perpendicular to
the ground. Also, the Anatolian should be standing on a flat surface and
viewed straight from the side at the level of the withers. Deviations from
this position will distort the angles.
To determine if the upper arm (humerus) is a correct length, measure the distance
from the top of the shoulder blade to the point of the shoulder. Then measure the
distance from the point of the shoulder along the upper arm to the point of the
elbow. These two distances should be equal and lay back at a 45 degree angle,
both 45 degrees off the horizontal. The upper arm (humerus) should be long
enough to place the lower leg (front leg) well back from the shoulder joint,
allowing for greater angulation at the junction of the upper arm and shoulder.
Having a short upper arm (humerus), which results in a front assembly that is
too straight, is currently a common structural flaw seen in many Anatolian's!
Also frequently seen are Anatolians with upper arms that have insufficient
layback.
Advantages of excellent shoulder lay back
Faster ground speed and better turns
Decrease in joint injuries
Decrease in shoulder, elbow and back injuries
Increase in flexibility, allowing for better "nose-to-ground" ability
Increase in muscle attachment allowing greater muscle bulk
Disadvantage of a straight shoulder
Decrease in reach and stride length
Reduction in the area for muscle attachment when the humerus is shorter
Reduction in stability and muscular development
Increase in the concussive force and damage to the forelimbs
HINDQUARTERS
Strong, with broad thighs and heavily muscled.
Angulation at the stifle and hock are in proportion to the forequarters.
As seen from behind, the legs are parallel.
The feet are strong and compact with well-arched toes, oval in shape.
Double dewclaws may exist. Dewclaws may be removed.
Anatolian Standard
CORRECT REAR ASSEMBLY (i.e. HINDQUARTERS)
An Anatolian's hind end is the propulsion mechanism to propel their bodies forward.
When leaping or jumping, the Anatolian pushes off using his rear. Any weakness
in the rear assembly will greatly reduce the Anatolian's ability to effectively
protect his livestock against predators. Rear end weakness might also result in
your dog's death.
Alteration in the conformation (i.e. the shape of the structure) of the Anatolian
rear assembly affects all of the angles in the rear assembly. An easy way to picture
the degree of angulation in the rear is to identify two locations: 1.) the lower
end of the of pelvis (called the ischial tuberosity) and 2.) the hock (when it is
placed perpendicular to the ground). Once identified, draw two seperate lines, one
from the ischial tuberosity to the ground; then draw the second line up through
the hock. This gives you two parallel lines. The distance between these two lines
helps picture the amount of angulation your dog has. The greater the distance
between these two lines the greater the angulation in the hind end. The closer these
two lines are the less angulation your dog has.
Different breeds have different structural standards because different breeds
were developed to perform different tasks. Anatolians have less rear angulation
than Greyhounds because the Anatolian requires less angulation to successfully perform
it's livestock guardian duties. Anatolian breeders must stop extending their dogs'
angulation just because it looks pretty. Just as rear angulation that is too straight
is detrimental to Anatolian performance, so is rear angulation that is
too extreme. Don't breed Anatolians with rear angulation too extreme to correctly
perform the physical tasks and maneuvers Anatolians require to protect their livestock
against predators!
There is a danger in extending Anatolian rear angulation past what is correct for
their livestock guardian duties. Greater angulation is associated with a longer
tibia length, which can lead to a straighter stifle (knee). A straighter stifle
hinders jumping ability (a must for an Anatolian leaping and whirling when fighting
serious predators). A straighter stifle also predisposes the Anatolian to possible
ligament tears (e.g. cranial crucial ligament, known as anterior cruciate ligament
(ACL) in humans).
Anatolian breeders can decrease their line's functionality by over-extending their
dogs' rear angulation. For some breeds, major changes to the rear angulation
have occurred. While beautifully extended rears might be pleasing to the eye,
an unwanted side effect is that they decreased that breed's functionally.
Excessive rear angulation can lead to a high incidence of hip dysplasia and
lumbosacral disease. And in working Anatolians, excessive rear angulation can greatly
reduce the dog's agility and twisting speed when fighting off predators! Surely
no one wants that!
Overangulation in the rear wastes energy and reduces the Anatolian's efficiency of movement
The Anatolian that is overangulated in the rear crabs or paces. Rear overangulation also
creates extra rear and/or front (hackney) movement to keep the Anatolian from overrunning
his own front feet. Rear under-angulation, the opposite problem, limits propulsion essential
for efficient movement, climbing ability, and power when fighting. This is why a
breeder must breed for the correct angulation in both front and rear!
Advantages of increased angulation in the rear
Faster ground speed
Longer stride
Disadvantages of increased angulation in the rear
Less stability
Harder to turn sharply
Slower lying and getting up
Hyper extension injuries
Spinal compensation
Summation for front and rear angulation
Both the front and rear assemblies must be in balance with each other to achieve
excellent coordination of movement, better agility and maneuverability, and a reduction
in the Anatolian's chances for injury.
FRONT AND REAR PAWS (FEET)
The Anatolian, like all livestock guardian breeds, should have
tight, cat-like feet, which maximize endurance and minimize injury. As stated
in the Anatolian Standard, "The feet are strong and compact with well-arched
toes, oval in shape."
While the hare foot (useful in achieving a bit more speed) is acceptable in Anatolians,
the cat foot is far more appropriate, since the cat foot helps with the twisting and
turning required in close fighting. The cat foot also provides greater stability
across rough terrain! I expect my Anatolians to chase off the predators only a short
distance and then quickly return to their charges in case another predator is
sneaking in from the rear. Therefore, the Anatolian's fighting ability, requiring
the cat foot, is more important than the Anatolian's ability to run fast in a straight
line, which is only slightly improved with the hare foot!
GENERAL APPEARANCE
"Large, rugged, powerful and impressive, possessing great endurance and agility.
Developed through a set of very demanding circumstances for a purely utilitarian purpose;
he is a working guard dog without equal, with a unique ability to protect livestock."
"General impression - Appears bold, but calm, unless challenged. He possesses size,
good bone, a well-muscled torso with a strong head. Reserve out of its territory
is acceptable. Fluid movement and even temperament is desirable."
Anatolian Standard
Each requirement found in the Anatolian Standard originates from the vital qualities
necessary in superior working livestock guardians. Dedicated Anatolian breeders
adhere to these physical and mental requirements. The best way to determine if an
Anatolian is rugged, powerful, and possesses great endurance and agility is to raise
Anatolians with sheep and/or goats in a predator rich environment. Watching your
Anatolians interact with your sheep and/or goats helps you understand and evaluate
their ability as a livestock guardian.
NO ANATOLIAN SHOULD BE CONSIDERED BREEDING QUALITY WITHOUT PROVING THAT HE/SHE IS
A "WORKING GUARD DOG WITHOUT EQUAL, WITH A UNIQUE ABILITY TO PROTECT LIVESTOCK,"
As stated in the first paragraph of the ANATOLIAN STANDARD!!!
All responsible breeders will fulfill this Anatolian Standard requirement through
serious testing and selection of all their Anatolian breeding stock for their ability
as a"working guard dogs without equal, with a unique ability to protect livestock!"
I personally view breeders who fail to perform this most important test as puppy
mill breeders. No matter how much health testing breeders do on their dogs or
how many show wins breeders achieve, all of these things are useless if breeders
haven't tested for the breed's essence, a unique ability to protect livestock.
That means that SHOW-ONLY BREEDERS (breeders who show Anatolians but do not test
their Anatolians for actual working ability with sheep and/or goats in a predator
rich environment) ARE NOT ADHERING TO THE ANATOLIAN STANDARD!!!! I've found that
when breeders want to talk at length about the health testing they do (a good thing)
but don't want to discuss the working environment they use to test their dogs for
superior working ability, they may not be testing their dogs for working ability
at all, and superior working ability is the single most important trait to breed
for when breeding Anatolians! "Breeders" (puppy mills?) who breed Anatolians untested
for superior working ability contribute to the degredation of the breed! Please
don't add to the degradation of the breed by purchasing pups from these irresponsible
Anatolian breeders who not only fail to test for working ability but also don't even
value working ability enough to breed their unproven working Anatolians to one who
has truly proven working ability!
"Appears bold, but calm, unless challenged." It is important to look for
Anatolians that are calm when no threats are perceived. However, in the face of
a threat, they must not only appear bold, they must BE BOLD! When challenged,
Anatolians must respond to that challenge. Anatolians who fail to respond powerfully to all
threats lack the critical internal strength required in a superior livestock
guardian! Many show-only breeders, whose Anatolians aren't required to face serious
predators, do not have the experiences with their Anatolians to understand how
vital internal strength is in a livestock guardian dog. It's far more difficult
to show an Anatolian possessing great internal strength, so many show-only breeders
select the sweeter pups. These sweeter pups tend to be less effective against
serious and powerful predators, reducing their effectiveness as livestock guardians!
Reserve out of its territory is acceptable. For working Anatolians, it is
not only acceptable, it is necessary! As a breeder, I look for what I call "off-territory
shut down." Since I require great internal strength in my dogs to stand firm to serious predators,
I need them to possess off-territory shut down, which means that when they are off territory
they dial-back their on-territory responses but will still protect me if I am
threatened. And they are far more open and accepting of strangers than when on-territory.
I consider this to be an important and necessary trait when making my breeding
selections!
SIZE, PROPORTION, SUBSTANCE
General balance is more important than absolute size.
Dogs should be from 29 inches and weighing from 110 to 150 pounds, proportionate to size and structure.
Bitches should be from 27 inches, weighing from 80 to 120 pounds, proportionate to size and structure.
Neither dog nor bitch appear fat. Both dog and bitch should be rectangular, in
direct proportion to height. Measurements and weights apply at age 2 or older.
Anatolian Standard
The most important structural statement in this section is "General balance is
more important than absolute size." Breeding for size hurts the breed! A well
balanced Anatolian has far greater agility and speed to use for close-in fighting than a huge
hulking monster-dog. Speed during close-in fighting and agility are both vitally important
traits in the working Anatolian and help an Anatolian stay alive and uninjuried
when confronting invasive predators! The size range in the Anatolian Standard
produces Anatolians with the best balance between power and agility! However, it
is disappointing when a breeder with a 150 pound male or a 120 pound female wants
to breed for greater size. Larger and larger Anatolians means Anatolians with less
and less agility!!! IT IS IMPORTANT TO MAINTAIN THE BALANCE BETWEEN SIZE AND
AGILITY!
HEAD
Expression should be intelligent.
Eyes are medium size, set apart, almond shaped and dark brown to light amber in color.
Blue eyes or eyes of two different colors are a disqualification. Eye rims will be
black or brown and without sag or looseness of haw. Incomplete pigment is a serious
fault.
Ears should be set on no higher than the plane of the head. V-shaped, rounded apex,
measuring about four inches at the base to six inches in length. The tip should be
just long enough to reach the outside corner of the eyelid. Ears dropped to sides.
Erect ears are a disqualification.
Skull is large but in proportion to the body. There is a slight centerline furrow,
fore and aft, from apparent stop to moderate occiput. Broader in dogs than in
bitches.
Muzzle is blockier and stronger for the dog, but neither dog nor bitch would have
a snipey head or muzzle.
Nose and flews must be solid black or brown. Seasonal fading is not to be penalized.
Incomplete pigment is a serious fault. Flews are normally dry but pronounced enough
to contribute to "squaring" the overall muzzle appearance. Teeth and gums strong
and healthy. Scissors bite preferred, level bite acceptable. Broken teeth are not
to be faulted. Overshot, undershot or wry bite are disqualifications.
Anatolian Standard
Structurally, it is important that Anatolians have almond shaped eyes. This shape
is useful in protecting the eyes from severe sunshine found both in a desert situation
(with the intense sun both shining down and reflecting off the desert sand) and
in locations with extensive snow cover (which also intensifies the suns damaging rays).
For this reason, no matter how beautiful they look, round eyes are absolutly
unacceptable in Anatolians!
It is important that the Anatolian's eyes must be "without sag or looseness of haw."
The "haw" is third eyelid, also called the “nictitating membrane.” They keep a dog's
eyes lubricated and protected. They are located at the corner of the eyes in most breeds.
When the eyelid sags and/or the haw is loose, blowing wind can more easily allow blown
dirt, manure, and other detritus into the Anatolian's eyes, where it creates
varying degrees of eye infection, reducing the Anatolian's functionability. No trait
can be allowed in Anatolians that reduce their ability to protect sheep and/or goats
in a predator rich environment!
Regarding ears, since most Turkish guardians had their ears cut off to protect them
from being torn during fights with predators, I place ears at the very bottom of
of traits I look for in breeding Anatolians. However, I detest the large,
hound-like ears seen in some Anatolians. Since the Turkish people cut off the ears
to reduce their size, it seems like Anatolian breeders need to honor that concept
by NOT breeding for ears any larger than described in the Anatolian Standard ("...
measuring about four inches at the base to six inches in length. The tip should be
just long enough to reach the outside corner of the eyelid.") Any larger is just
too large!!!
.
" ... neither dog nor bitch would have a snipey head or muzzle. This requirement
has a working structural basis since a larger, blockier head and muzzle provides greater
biting power and strength than a snipey, smaller head and muzzle. However, if you
must select between better head shape or better working ability, always chose the
Anatolian with superior working ability!
"Flews are normally dry but pronounced enough to contribute to "squaring" the overall
muzzle appearance." Flews are an Anatolian's upper lips, or the canine equivalent.
When the flews are "floppy," the dog generally drools, which is irritating to
both humans and livestock. Sagging lips (loose mouth skin) make drooling worse,
so it is important when breeding Anatolians to always favor Anatolians with tight dry lips.
NECK, TOPLINE, BODY
Neck slightly arched, powerful, and muscular, moderate in length with more skin and fur than elsewhere on the body, forming a protective ruff. The dewlap should not be pendulous and excessive.
Topline will appear level when gaiting.
Back will be powerful, muscular, and level, with drop behind withers and gradual arch over loin, sloping slightly downward at the croup.
Body well proportioned, functional, without exaggeration. Never fat or soft.
Chest is deep (to the elbow) and well-sprung with a distinct tuck up at the loin.
Tail should be long and reaching to the hocks. Set on rather high. When relaxed,
it is carried low with the end curled upwards. When alert, the tail is carried high,
making a "wheel." Both low and wheel carriage are acceptable, when gaiting.
"Wheel" carriage preferred. The tail will not necessarily uncurl totally.
Anatolian Standard
Neck ... with more skin and fur than elsewhere on the body, forming a protective ruff.
For some reason, the protective ruff has almost been lost in Anatolians, especially in the show Anatolians.
Why these show-only breeders and judges don't understand how vitally important this "protective ruff"
is to the working Anatolian I'll never understand. Even my own line, since I've bred
into some major show lines, have a greatly reduced ruff, and this reduction really
bothers me!
My first Anatolian's ruff was almost four inches long. It lay flat on his body so you
only saw it's true extent when he went into warning mode. When upset, he made it stand
straight out from his body! Quite impressive! It not only helped protect him if a
predator tried to grab his neck, it also immediately made him look more massive, powerful,
and threatening. His protective ruff wasn't just limited to his neck; it extended
along the top of his back in a six inch wide swath of four inch long fur to his tail.
This back hair also stood straight up, making him appear taller. With his neck and
back hair standing stiff, he had a wild and threatening look about him, which I'm
certain helped him drive off dangerous predators!
To better understand an Anatolian's topline one must first understand the Anatolian's
spine. A dog's spine consists of five regions: cervical (seven vertebrae), thoracic
(thirteen vertebrae), lumbar (seven vertebrae), sacral (three vertebrae), and caudal
vertebrae, which can vary in number based on the dog breed.
The topline begins at the withers, which dips down to the relatively level back
(which covers a mere hand span to the loin). Then the topline makes a slight arch
over the loin (the loin has the muscles that facilitate the double suspension gallop
and other leaping and twisting functions). Some individuals have incorrectly assumed
that the entire topline should be relatively level; a relatively level topline is
incorrect in Anatolians. It is important to note that dogs in excellent condition
generally have a more developed rise over the loin than those not as fit. After
the rise in the loin, the croup drops off at an angle. So in reality, the Anatolian
spine looks like a "lazy-s" as it curves across the Anatolian's topline.
An Anatolian with correct spinal structure must have an arched loin (not roached). The
arched loin allows for greater spinal flexibility, which is critical in Anatolians
who must twist, turn, and leap to avoid damage or death when encountering
agile predators.
The length, shape and curvature of the spinal vertebrae together with the muscles
that support the loin area create a characteristic "lazy-s" topline, including
the Anatolian's characteristic arch over the loin. As described by the renowned
AKC Judge, Judge Richard Beauchamp, the Anatolian's "'lazy-s' topline is a very
gentle curve that flows downward behind the withers then arches slightly up over
the loin area." The topline then slopes slightly downward at the croup. All of these
curves and slopes are absolutly necessary in the correct working Anatolian in order
to achieve the greatest chance of success during life-threatening combant with predators!
As stated above, the topline is the line formed by the withers, back loin and croup (i.e. the area
from the base of the neck to the base of the tail). A good topline, one that doesn't
bounce when the dog is trotting, helps identify balanced angulation between the
front and rear assembly. A bouncing topline indicates that there is an issue with
the dog's structure. A steady topline that literally makes the dog appear to be
floating around the ring indicates excellent structure. Dogs with "floating" movement
and a correct topline are the dogs most likely to have the correct structure with
correct reach and drive.
There are no sharp angles or abrupt stops in the Anatolian topline, which curves
smoothly along the Anatolian's "lazy-s" spinal structure. The Anatolian topline
must NEVER BE STRAIGHT, like the straight toplines seen in many show dogs. A
straight topline reduces an Anatolian's flexability and agility, traits vital when
fighting predators close-in. Judges (and breeders) who prefer Anatolians with straight
toplines need additional structural-related breed education.
Since the Anatolian is slightly longer than tall and possesses the "lazy-s" topline's
slightly arched loin, they are able to fold mid-air while changing directions and to
jump upwards as high as six feet from a complete standstill, as my Anatolian,
CHAMPION Birinci's YAHSI of LUCKY HIT,
frequently did. This "lazy-s" Anatolian spinal structure in conjunction with a distinct
tuck up at the loin also allows Anatolians to complete other amazing mid-air twisting leaps
that are absolutly necessary in protective combat with powerful, fast, and agile
predators. Anatolians without the correct Anatolian spinal structure (i.e. flat-backed Anatolians)
lack sufficient speed and agility to leap, twist, and turn compared to Anatolians with
the "lazy-s" spine.
I never place too much faith in show titles when considering structure. Proven working
ability in the pasture with serious predators, not titles, demonstrate an Anatolians
ability to withstand the enormous wear and tear on an Anatolian's body the pasture fosters.
By observing my Anatolians in a true working setting (with serious predators), my
understanding of correct Anatolian structure, including the Anatolian's "lazy-s" topline,
is expanded!
About the tail
As a working Anatolian breeder, I look for what actually works, not some ideal tail
carriage obtained from a stamp drawn by an artist who probably wasn't ever around
Turkish livestock guardians. So for me, the important things I look for in the
Anatolian tail is a tail that can stand up high and yet curve forward enough that
the sheep and/or goats can easily see the curve.
I know the Turkish stamp shows
a tail that makes a perfect circle, and this is fine as long as the tail is long.
But once the tip of the tail touches the Anatolian's back, it should curl no more!
I've seen Anatolians with tails that curl around tightly, like a pig. The tightly
curled tail doesn't stand up very high because a tight curl reduces its overall
height. Sheep and goats clustered behind a dog with a tightly curled tail in the
middle of a dark night hounded by hungry predators can't easily see the dog's tightly
curled tail. And the kids and lambs are too short to see it at all. When it can't
be seen it can't perform it's function.
The correct Anatolian tail should stick up like a protective beacon. Livestock must be able
to easily see both the tail and its curve forward. Somehow, sheep and goats know that
the safest place is directly behind the Anatolian. They also know that when directly
behind the dog, the curve disappears behind the upright tail.
Of course, the Anatolian must hold their tails in the correct position to convey
the proper protective information to their charges. Anatolians must change
their tail position as the predator situation changes to convey correct protective
information to their charges! These positions
range from high, straight up (and curled forward) with rapid back and forth
"tail-wagging" (high danger) to relaxed, almost to the ground, with a slight curl
on the end (all is well).
COAT
Short (one inch minimum, not tight) to Rough (approximately 4 inches in length)
with neck hair slightly longer.
Somewhat longer and thicker at the neck and mane.
A thick undercoat is common to all.
Feathering may occur on the ear fringes, legs, breeching, and tail.
Anatolian Standard
Long or short, the Anatolian coat needs to shed stickers and burrs. Coats that are soft and
silky enough to allow stickers/burrs to cling are coats that need to be eliminated from
breeding Anatolians.
A trait specified for Anatolians, longer and thicker hair at the neck creating a
distinctive mane, is important for additional protection during fights. However,
it seems that both judges and show people have decided this trait isn't necessary
and seem to ignore the fact that it is in the standard. What a shame!
Another triat that seems to be ignored is "a thick undercoat is common to all." One
time I showed a beautifully built working Anatolian with an extremely thick undercoat who was in her shedding
cycle. One judge chastized me for bringing that dog to the show and complained about the
shedding. I'd groomed the dog for hours, including the hour before entering the
ring, yet the hair kept flying off! This judge said she was insulted that I'd brought
the dog to her for examination. A thick undercoat is necessary to protect Anatolians
in the pasture 24/7 from all types of inclement weather. I wondered if this insulted judge's
experiences with Anatolians was limited to Anatolians living on the couch in heating and
air conditioning? Even then, if they have a correct coat, they should have a thick
enough undercoat to exhibit heavy shedding at times! A judge I could respect would
have said, "What an amazingly thick undercoat this dog has! Thick undercoats are
so vital to this breed!"
Judges who dislike Anatolian traits required to perform their guardian duties should
stop judging Anatolians! And they have certainly gone too far when they pay more
attention to Anatolian grooming than they do to temperament and structure! Anatolians
should never be considered just pets and companions. Anatolians were "Developed
through a set of very demanding circumstances for a purely utilitarian purpose;
he is a working guard dog without equal, with a unique ability to protect livestock."
Only by honoring that part of the Anatolian Standard can a judge be qualified to
judge Anatolians!
COLOR
All color patterns and markings are equally acceptable.
Anatolian Standard
Nothing could be clearer! All color patterns and markings are equally acceptable.
Remember, "NO GOOD DOG IS A BAD COLOR!" When you are talking about Anatolians,
a "good" dog is always an Anatolian with superior working ability guarding
sheep and/or goats in a predator rich environment! Color is irrelevant!
GAIT
At the trot, the gait is powerful yet fluid.
When viewed from the front or rear, the legs turn neither in nor out, nor do feet
cross or interfere with each other.
With increased speed, footfall converges toward the center line of gravity.
When viewed from the side, the front legs should reach out smoothly with no obvious
pounding.
The withers and backline should stay nearly level with little rise or fall.
The rear assembly should push out smoothly with hocks doing their share of the
work and flexing well.
Anatolian Standard
The above description seems to be refering to the trot. However, dogs have the following gaits:
walk, amble, pace, trot, rotary canter, transverse canter, rotary gallop, and transverse
gallop. Since the Anatolian Standard, under "GAIT," seems to be solely focused on the trot,
my comments will also focus on the trot.
Each of the above statements describe elements of an excellent trotting gait. However, what I look for,
in a nutshell, is a dog who trots across the pasture and appears to be floating. The smoother
and more "floating" the motion, the better the trot and the more ideal the structure
of that dog!
The above section does an excellent job of breaking down each separate element
of the Anatolian trot and is a useful guide when analyzing an Anatolian's movement.
Another way to view the trot is that the trotting dog uses alternating legs, creating
triangles. The front left and right rear legs move together, then the front right
and left rear legs move together. Ideally, the trot is a smooth, floating stride
with the dog lifting the front pad of one side immediately before the rear pad of
that same side lands almost exactly in the front pads' footprint.
TEMPERAMENT
Alert and intelligent, calm and observant.
Instinctively protective, he is courageous and highly adaptable.
He is very loyal and responsive.
Highly territorial, he is a natural guard.
Reserved around strangers and off its territory is acceptable.
Responsiveness with animation is not characteristic of the breed.
Overhandling would be discouraged.
Anatolian Standard
So much of the temperament section of the Anatolian Standard is amazingly correct.
You can tell, however, that the last sentence of this section was written by show people.
The last statement says "Overhandling would be discouraged." People focused
on the working aspect of the breed would never think that a "handling" requirement
would be included in the Anatolian Standard! It would seem to
me that the comments "Highly territorial, he is a natural guard." and "Reserved around
strangers and off its territory." tells it all! But maybe not enough for AKC judges,
many of whom do not seem to understand correct Anatolian breed character! (And why
are these people who don't understand correct Anatolian breed character allowed to
judge Anatolians?)
I wish AKC judges, who are supposed to have excellent knowledge of the breeds they judge,
understood Anatolian temperament well enough to understand and appreciate this section
of the Anatolian Standard. Sadly, many judges still approach Anatolians too aggressively,
and worse, then punish the dog for a correct Anatolian response! That's an excellent way
for a breed to be ruined through AKC judging, especially if breeders shift from correct
Anatolian temperament to the incorrect softer, sweeter, show dog temperament some judges,
apparently ignorant of Anatolian breed character, seem to love so well!!!
Maybe a better last sentence to this section would be, "Correct livestock guardian
temperament and demeanor will always be rewarded when being judged! Improper livestock
guardian temperament and demeanor would be discouraged!" Of course, that would require
Anatolian judges to understand what proper livestock guardian temperament and
demeanor is, to know how it would be expressed in the ring, and to know how to act
around Anatolians with correct livestock guardian temperament and demeanor! Since
their judging selections help guide in the selection of future breeding Anatolians,
is that too much to ask?
DISQUALIFICATIONS
Blue eyes or eyes of two different colors.
Erect ears.
Overshot, undershot, or wry bite.
Anatolian Standard
Blue eyes... They come from more than one source. In association with the merle
gene blue eyes can indicate a potential for blindness and/or deafness. However,
I have never heard of an Anatolian with the merle gene. Other reasons a dog has
blue eyes may mean nothing negative. Blue eyes don't necessarily mean your dog will
eventually go blind, deaf, or have any other genetic defects. Variation in pigmentation
of the iris occurs for varying reasons and doesn't necessarily indicate health problems.
In some dog breeds, blue eyes can indicate possible vision defects without necessarily
indicating that the blue-eyed dog will eventually go blind. Siberian Huskies and
other breeds routinely have blue eyes without problems. Problems with blue eyes most often result
due to the presence of a double merle gene. When such problems occur, they are referred
to as merle ocular dysgenesis or MOD.
Embark researched blue eyes in dogs. They indicate that "Two genes that influence the
“Merle” (M-locus) and “Piebald” (S-locus) coat color traits were already known to predict
when a dog is more likely to have blue eyes." They also indicate that "even after taking
those two genes into account, some cases of blue eyes remain unexplained.
For example, some dog breeds, like Siberian Huskies and tri-colored Australian Shepherds,
occasionally have blue eyes which can not be explained by M-locus or S-locus."
The genome near the ALX4 gene was discovered to influence development of blue eyes and an allele,
or genetic variant, of this same gene also is associated with the presence of
hindlimb dewclaws in Great Pyrenees!
While Albino dogs are more likely to have blue or light amber eyes rather than
pink or red, albino dogs are quite rare.
Erect ears... Flop ears on Anatolians help sheep and/or goats immediately
tell the difference between their guardians and their prick eared predators.
Of course, sheep and/or goats don't really need to check an animal's ears to identify
a predator... The demeanor and behavior of predators is all that sheep and/or goats need to see to
realize they are predators! That's why you should never breed an Anatolian that
sheep and/or goats react to as if the Anatolian is a predator! The ability to
move through the flock in a calming, non-predatory way is a basic requirement in
all working livestock guardians. But if you have failed to test your Anatolians
for working ability as a part of your routine selection process, how will you know whether
or not your Anatolians have even this basic level of working ability? And if you
don't know if this basic talent is present or not, perhaps you should NOT BREED your
Anatolian, no matter how many show wins the dog has. After all, the essence of the
breed is being a superior working livestock guardian. Only proving the dog can
beautifully trot around a ring in front of a judge isn't good enough to consider the
dog a breeding prospect. An Anatolian breeding prospect must have proven superior
working ability!!!!
Overshot, undershot, or wry bite... These might affect a dog's ability to grab and
hold a predator, so are valid disqualifications.
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